Welcome back to the Superfine series. In preparation for the next Met Gala, I’m diving into Monica Miller’s Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity to better understand the theme. It’s a bold choice for a predominantly white and often indifferent industry to center such a deeply Black cultural text. If there’s a way to connect this very Black narrative to the industry at large, I’m here to find it.
If you’re following my reading, I’ve just made it through the introduction. It took longer than expected—mostly because I spiraled into watching "how to read for research" YouTubes. But after sitting with these early pages, huzzah, I’ve finally pieced together a working proposal and framework. (sn: “huzzah” is my latest weird obsession. I say it every time I check my bank account and hope, against all odds, that a bit more cash magically appears.)

With these notes in hand, I’m beginning to see how this book, so steeped in Black culture, can serve as a lens to understand the entire fashion industry.
Monica Miller’s book reveals how Black dandyism became a potent expression of Black identity, challenging stereotypes and reclaiming autonomy through fashion. While it certainly worked for Black individuals, the real value lies in understanding how and why it worked. By unpacking these elements, we can uncover broader principles that may be applied to other fashion movements and makers.
From the introduction, I identified five core characteristics of Black dandyism. I’ll be diving into each one to understand what they reveal about fashion today, and how they might be impacting the way fashion is made and understood in the present.
And that’s where I am for now. Deep into the research, but this is just the start. In the next newsletter, I’ll dig into a couple of contemporary designers I’m thinking about for point #1. Martine Rose & Grace Wales Bonner are still top of mind.
I included a snapshot of my framework here as well. It’s rough around the edges, but making it was my brand of election night escapism. And honestly, I’m grateful for it. Stay tuned for what I hope will evolve into an exciting conversation!
~ Becca