Understanding Martine Rose
Read this while playing "The Whistle Song" by Frankie Knuckles for maximum impact.
Welcome back to the Superfine series. In preparation for the next Met Gala, I’m diving into Monica Miller’s Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity to better understand the theme. It’s a bold choice for a predominantly white and often indifferent industry to center such a deeply Black cultural text. If there’s a way to connect this very Black narrative to the industry at large, I’m here to find it.
I am Los Angeles born and bred. I wore my Dodger cap during the World Series this year while living in New York (to some funny and sometimes scary stares). I wear platform Uggs and shorts, drink green juice, and eat lots of kale and quinoa. I can’t deny my roots, nor would I ever want to. That’s why I love seeing a designer who is not only just as proud of where they came from but builds an entire world that makes their version of hometown impossible to ignore.
If I were designing the Los Angeles of my youth, it would probably look like this current Miu Miu schoolgirl era. Because what comes to mind is being a student in private school and how we used to make our uniforms our own. For Martine Rose, it looks like a celebration of the subcultures she was part of, including 90s rave culture, grime, football casuals, and Jamaican dancehall, that shaped her upbringing in North London.
Making the world she grew up in visible and loved by everyone else is what makes her such an important voice. Her work challenges the mainstream to realize that their way is not the only way. That’s why she is the perfect lens to explore another characteristic of the Black dandy: critiquing exceptionalism. While traditionally a critique of American exceptionalism, the larger message is universal—challenging the belief that the dominant narrative is the only narrative. And that’s exactly what Martine Rose’s work achieves.
The Shows
Take her Spring/Summer 2020 show, staged on a quiet residential street in North London. Models strolled past parked cars and intrigued neighbors, dressed in her signature tailoring and exaggerated proportions. It was about everyday life but elevated. By situating her show in such a familiar and intimate setting, Rose turned the ordinary into something extraordinary. She made the streets she grew up on visible to the fashion world and reminded everyone that inspiration doesn’t only come from gilded runways or exclusive venues. It’s a reminder that beauty and culture thrive in spaces the mainstream often overlooks.
Then there’s the Fall 2024 show, which looked like an absolute party. Watching it, you couldn’t help but feel the joy radiating through the screen. You could see the influence of music, nightlife, and the thrill of being at a rave. The energy was infectious, and the vibe was so jubilant it felt like a love letter to her hometown heroes who define the culture from the ground up.
Among all the standout looks, my favorite was the double-breasted short coat in rich blue-black moiré suiting fabric, paired with matching trousers. The moiré fabric itself felt like a metaphor for Rose’s design ethos: layered, textured, and dynamic. It reminded me of the uncle who insists on wearing a suit to a backyard BBQ, dressed to impress because why not? It’s about celebrating the simple joy of wearing something beautiful and making it your own.
Why Her Work Matters Now
In a time when the fashion industry often feels dominated by a singular vision of what’s “in,” Martine Rose’s work is a necessary disruption. She reminds us that the world is richer and more complex than the narrow narratives we’re so often sold. By celebrating subcultures, individuality, and the beauty of her North London roots, Rose not only critiques the dominance of mainstream culture but also challenges the industry to reconsider what fashion can be. Her designs reflect real people, their lives, and their communities. She offers a vibrant, layered alternative to the status quo at a time when representation and authenticity are more important than ever.
Met Gala Predictions
Looking ahead, I predict we’ll see more rappers who don’t typically walk the Met Gala red carpet. One of Martine Rose’s favorite collaborators is Kendrick Lamar, and there’s so much alignment there. Kendrick is the king of opening people’s eyes to the trickery that the mainstream tries to pull over on us, and that spirit feels connected to everything Rose designs. Generally, I also expect to see more musicians and friends of Pharrell making an appearance. So yeah, let’s see if Kendrick shows up. It feels like the perfect moment.
~ Becca